Soc Trang province is located in the Mekong RiverDelta region near the mouth of the Bassac River (Song Hau Giang). It is the
centre of an intensive rice-growing area and a crossroad for road and canal
traffic.
It’s a poor area (as demonstrated by the scruffy condition of the provincial capital, Soc Trang town) with an estimated population of 59,000 just over 200km from Ho Chi Minh City. The road journey involves two ferry crossings.
The main ethnic communities living in Soc Trang
province are the Kin, Khmer (28%), and Hoya (8%). There are several attractions
in and around the town, including some excellent pagodas.
Chua Doi (‘Maha Tup’ in
Kh’mer, but better known as the ‘Bat’ Pagoda)
The original pagoda was built during the 16th century, but has been renovated several
times since. It’s notable for its architecture, an ancient Buddha statue and a
number of Buddhist books written on sugar palm leaves, but its main claim to
fame is the presence of large numbers of fruit bats. They have wingspans of
more than a metre and roost in the trees behind the pagoda, resembling large
ripe pears as they hang upside down from the upper branches.
The presence of the bats has not affected the
plants growing in and around the pagoda (although their droppings can have a
marked effect on tourists’ clothes), and they seem oblivious to the people
wandering around below them. The best time to see them is in the late afternoon
when they fly away to look for food.
The Kh`leang Pagoda
This is a fine example of a typical Kh’mer pagoda. Set on a two-level terrace,
the doors and windows are ornamented with Kh’mer motifs and in bright colours.
The interior is dominated by a large gilded Buddha and there are several
interesting artifacts in dusty display cases. A donation of the box will be appreciated.
The guide books often say the building is usually
locked, which is true. However, those in the know or travelling with Haivenu,
will knock on the door, whereupon one of the resident monks will appear, open
up, and be delighted to show you round and chat about the temple, Buddhism and
anything else of interest.
Just across the road is a small Kh’mer museum
with some good exhibits relating to the local culture.
Buu Son Tu Pagoda
Soc Trang also has a truly unique pagoda. Chua Buu Son Tu (Precious Mountain Temple)
was founded more than 200 years ago, but is now known as Chua Dat Set (the Clay
Pagoda). At the age of twenty, a devout Buddhist monk called Ngo Kim Tong
devoted the rest of his life and considerable talent to decorating the temple
with clay effigies and objects ranging from the exquisite to the bizarre. The
fruits of his labour over 42 years are a delight.
He is commemorated by a pair of massive candles
lit upon his death in 1970. They will finally burn down during 2005, to be
replaced by another pair. As there are another four pairs in stock, his
memorial will last beyond 2,100!
Please be generous with your donations. The Clay
Pagoda is a family temple and thus relies entirely upon the generosity of
well-wishers to cover the considerable costs of maintaining the building and
its remarkable contents.
Im Son Rang
Not far from the town, the Im Son Rang is a recently-built Kh’mer pagoda in
pleasant gardens among the orchards on My Phuoc Island. The many monks enjoy
having visitors. It’s about a half-hour boat ride.
The Oc-Om-Boc Festival
Soc Trang is a sleepy place apart from December. On the 14th or 15th day of the
tenth lunar month, the local Kh’mers stage a series of longboat races that
attract visitors and competitors from all over Cambodia and Vietnam. Each boat
is carved from a single tree-trunk, diamond-shaped with curved ends. There's a
substantial cash prize at stake, so it’s a lively event.
The Best Foods in Soc Trang Province:
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| Cóng Cakes |
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| Ống Cakes |
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| Pía Cakes |
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| Bún Gỏi dà |
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| Bún nước lèo |
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| Bún Tiêu giò |
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| Cháo Cá Lóc với rau đắng |
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